The grapes of Zumaquero Wines

Two Varieties, One Vineyard

At Zumaquero Wines, we make our wines from the grape varieties growing together in the vineyard, respecting the plot’s traditional composition and historic way of cultivation.

For now, we work with two varieties: Mencía, the main grape and the one that defines the wine’s character, and a small proportion of Doña Blanca, a white variety traditionally found in many old Bierzo vineyards. Palomino also grows in our La Grisuela plot, although we are still exploring how best to make it part of Zumaquero Wines :).

The Mencía and Doña Blanca grapes are harvested together on the same day and fermented together from the very beginning. This is not a blend of two finished wines, but a true co-fermentation, in which both varieties share the same transformation process from the moment they are picked.

This combination was not created as a formula in a modern winery. It comes directly from the vineyard and reflects a traditional way of understanding winegrowing in Bierzo.

And are these vines over a hundred years old? It is likely, based on the oral history passed down through the winery, but we cannot document their exact age.

Mencía: Bierzo’s Signature Grape

Mencía is Bierzo’s signature red grape and the heart of the wines produced by Zumaquero Wines. The Regulatory Council recognizes it as the appellation’s principal red variety. It is a relatively low-yielding grape variety that buds and ripens early, producing small to medium-sized clusters with dark blue berries.

Its particularly close connection to northwestern Spain means that it also has a long and significant history in several areas of Galicia, especially in the provinces of Lugo and Ourense. Local names and synonyms may appear in certain sources and regions, but Mencía is the name officially recognized both in Bierzo and in Galicia’s main wine appellations.

It is a grape variety that is particularly sensitive to where it is grown. Soil, elevation, vineyard orientation, vine age, yield and harvest timing can all significantly influence its expression. As a result, wines labeled Mencía can range from light and fruit-driven to deep, mineral and capable of developing beautifully with age.

The Typical Profile of Mencía Wines

Mencía typically produces wines with red fruit, violet and subtle herbal, earthy or mineral notes. They usually have medium body, lively acidity and fine tannins, although their expression varies greatly depending on the vineyard, vintage and winemaking. But we are in almost centenary vineyards... so we can find lots of surprises. Here a summary of what to expect from Mencia:

Mencía from Young Vines

Young vines tend to produce fresh, fruit-forward wines with:

Bright red fruit and floral aromas.
Light to medium body.
Soft tannins and an approachable character.

Careful farming and controlled yields can still produce high-quality wines from younger vineyards.

Mencía from Old Vines

Older vines often produce lower yields and wines with greater:

Depth and concentration.
Floral, earthy and mineral complexity.
Texture, balance and length.
Expression of the vineyard site.

The difference is not necessarily greater power, but rather more depth, balance, texture and complexity.

Mencía from Century-Old Vines

Century-old vines have adapted to their site over generations and usually produce very limited yields. Their wines may combine deep fruit, floral and mineral layers, fine tannins, complex textures and a long finish. Also medium to deep body.

Healthy grapes, a balanced vineyard and respectful winemaking remain essential to reach the greatest quality. In so, 13 Viñas are the experts.

Doña Blanca: Neither the best known nor the most obvious choice.

Doña Blanca may not be Bierzo’s best-known white grape, but Zumaquero Wines is not intended to be predictable.

It grows naturally among the Mencía vines in our plot and forms part of the vineyard’s traditional balance. Harvested and co-fermented with Mencía, it adds subtle white-flower and herbal notes, bringing greater aromatic openness and complexity.

Using Doña Blanca means respecting what actually grows in the vineyard and preserving an identity that cannot be recreated by simply following a recipe.

Doña Blanca is not there to stand out on its own. It is there to make the whole wine unique. That's why we chose it.

Typical Expression of Doña Blanca Wines

Although this is not our approach, when vinified as a standalone variety, Doña Blanca can produce wines of notable delicacy and subtlety. Depending on vine yield, ripeness, soil conditions, and winemaking decisions, it may display:

White orchard fruit.
Notes of apple and pear.
Delicate white floral aromas.
Hints of fresh herbs.
Subtle citrus nuances.
A light to medium-bodied palate.
Moderate acidity.
A restrained, nuanced character rather than overt aromatic intensity.

Doña Blanca is not a variety that seeks attention through exuberance. Its true value often lies in its ability to contribute complexity, texture, freshness and balance, while allowing the principal variety to remain at the forefront.

Doña Blanca from Young Vines

When sourced from younger vineyards, Doña Blanca often expresses itself in a more immediate and straightforward manner, typically showing:

Fresh white fruit aromas.
Floral notes.
Light herbal or green nuances.
A lively, uncomplicated palate.
A relatively short finish.
A style best suited to early enjoyment.

High yields may limit concentration, making careful vineyard management particularly important.

Doña Blanca from Mature Vines

In older vineyards with naturally moderated yields, the variety can reveal greater depth and refinement, offering:

Increased concentration.
Riper white fruit character.
More complex floral notes.
Hints of dried herbs.
Greater palate weight.
A broader, more textured mouthfeel.
A longer, more persistent finish.
Enhanced potential for integration in complex blends and co-fermentations.

In co-fermentation with Mencía, these qualities can translate into subtle contributions of aromatic freshness, texture, balance and complexity.

Doña Blanca from Century-Old Vines

This is why we chose it.

Century-old vines of a minority variety represent far more than a viticultural resource. They are a living expression of the vineyard's cultural heritage and genetic diversity.

When grown in the right conditions, century-old Doña Blanca may contribute:

Greater aromatic depth.
Less emphasis on primary fruit.
Nuances of flowers, dried herbs, beeswax and ripe fruit.
Texture and structure rather than aromatic exuberance.
Remarkable persistence on the palate.
A profound sense of place and connection to the vineyard from which it originates.

As with Mencía, these characteristics should not be viewed as automatic consequences of vine age. Rather, they are potential expressions that may emerge when old vines, site, climate and viticulture align harmoniously.

The Blend: Mencía + Doña Blanca (And a Few Other Things You Should Know)

What Doña Blanca Contributes

In small proportions, Doña Blanca is not intended to turn the wine into a rosé-style blend, nor to overshadow Mencía's character. Its role is far more subtle.

It may help to:

Lift and broaden the aromatic profile.
Bring delicate floral and herbal notes.
Add nuance to the fruit expression.
Enhance smoothness and flow on the palate.
Refine texture and soften the perception of tannins.
Contribute to greater overall complexity.

The result should not be viewed as two easily identifiable varieties combined in a glass. In a well-integrated co-fermentation, what matters is the harmony they create together.

A Decision True to the Vineyard

Co-fermentation allows us to make wine from the vineyard's natural composition. Rather than separating varieties and blending them later, we embrace the parcel as it has evolved over time.

We have made one small exception by excluding Palomino, at least for now. Climate change means the different varieties do not always reach optimum ripeness simultaneously, and we do not want to release a wine that falls short of our vision.

This approach requires close observation every vintage. Mencía and Doña Blanca do not always ripen at the same pace, so harvest timing must balance both varieties.

There is no fixed formula. Each harvest requires us to assess:

Mencía ripeness.
Doña Blanca condition.
Acidity.
Fruit health.
Concentration.
The overall balance of the vineyard.

Co-fermentation does not mean giving up winemaking decisions. It means making them while respecting an identity that already exists in the vineyard.

Vine Age Matters, But It Is Not Everything

Old vines can have a significant influence on wine quality, but age alone is not a guarantee of excellence.

A neglected or unbalanced old vine is not necessarily capable of producing better fruit than a younger vine grown in the right place and carefully managed.

The final expression of a wine depends on many factors, including:

Vine age and health.
Soil depth and composition.
Altitude and exposure.
Vintage conditions.
Water availability.
Yield per vine.
Pruning practices.
Harvest timing.
Fruit selection.
Winemaking and ageing.

Age brings adaptation, resilience and heritage. Quality emerges when those attributes are matched by balance and careful stewardship.

What Does “Old Vine” Really Mean?

For many years, the term "old vine" was used inconsistently, with different interpretations across regions and producers.

In 2024, the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) established an international definition:

An old vine is an individual vine with a documented age of 35 years or more.
For grafted vines, the graft union must have remained intact for at least those 35 years.
An old-vine vineyard is a legally defined, continuous parcel where at least 85% of the vines meet this definition.

This provides an international benchmark, although individual appellations may apply their own regulations.

In the case of D.O. Bierzo, the regulations consulted do not establish a specific category or minimum age for vines to be officially described as old. For this reason, the OIV's 35-year threshold serves as a useful reference, while remaining distinct from any designation-specific classifications.

It is also worth distinguishing between three concepts:

Old Vine: a vine aged 35 years or more according to the OIV definition.
Mature Vine: a descriptive term for older vineyards, but not an official category.
Centenarian Vine: a vine that has reached or exceeded 100 years of age, with its age ideally documented.

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